The main island of Okinawa is bursting with hidden wonders. Some of these come in the form of ancient graves, some in the form of museums or well-preserved traditional Okinawan houses from a bygone era, and others come in the form of restaurants that are so charming the owners could almost charge a price just for admission. Umi no Izukiya is one such place and if you plan to spend a lazy day meandering around Nanjo City in Souther Okinawa, there are few better establishments where you can enjoy the combination of a fine meal and a magnificent view.
Located at the edge of a cliff just steps from the entrance of Seifa Utaki, one of Okinawa’s most revered spiritual ‘power spots,’ the lawn of Umi no Isukiya overlooks Kudaka Island, which, according to Okinawan legend, is the place where the creator God who made the islands of the Okinawan archipelago first landed. Just the breathtaking view of endless ocean and wide-open sky is enough to make a stop here worthwhile.
Umi no Isukia: Fusion Food, Elegant Presentation
The meal was excellent. Every person in our party ordered a different dish and everyone felt satisfied. The selection is decent for such a small restaurant, but the variety is good enough that I suspect most people can find something they like. I’m gluten intolerant and as such am very limited in what I can order, but I was very happy with the rice dish served with a super-fresh and light tomato sauce. The salad was a delightful appetizer. My wife ordered a sandwich and one of the homestay girls ordered a pizza. It all arrived hot, and in a timely manner.
Tastefully Landscaped Grounds
What makes the experience of enjoying a mid-day meal at Umi no Izena even better than the great food and beautiful ocean view is the beauty of the property itself. It is clear that the owners have taken great pains to maintain the flower and herb garden between the entrance and the courtyard. Though quite tiny, the garden is artfully landscaped and the selection of colorful flowers is enchanting. If you like flower gardens, you could easily spend half an hour just standing on the narrow path, drinking in the delicate floral aromas and luxuriating in blissful tranquility.
Perhaps the most opulent feature of the garden is the Mayflower tree. We were fortunate enough to be there when the tree was in full bloom, treating us to an explosion of lavender blossoms. The little broad-petaled flowers clinging to the fence at the edge of the garden helped create a barrier that separated the garden from the nearby street and helped foster the impression that the yard existed in its own idyllic universe.
Depending on the weather, you can eat outdoors under the umbrellas the owners have set up on the lawn, or inside the structure. Both are good choices, but we ate outside to make the most of the mild spring afternoon. The building features Japanese lanterns and a traditional Okinawan red-tile roof. Although it was built recently, the structure’s design harkens back to traditional Okinawan design, with rounded pillars supporting the roof, which overhangs the walls to block the summer sun and provide protection from the rain. One of the advantages of eating outside is the ability to look at the beautiful building and the gorgeous trees around it.
A Place for Healing
I was thrilled that I got the opportunity to chat with the owner, who told me all about the design and layout of the property and gardens. He believes the property was a gift from the gods, and even wrote this on a sign he propped up on a chair for visitors to see (Japanese only, translation below). He said that everything about the experience of the establishment – the food, the gardens, the view and the location right next to Seifa Utaki – was meant to help heal and rejuvenate patrons in some meaningful way. It’s clear that he’s accomplished what he set out to do.
The sign reads:
“Although this is a private residence, we consider this garden a gift from the gods. We’ve decided to open it up to share this space with all of you. We hope you can feel even a small part of Hatsume Sensei’s spirit and enjoy this as a place of healing for your heart.”
The reference to ‘Hatsume Sensei’ relates to a woman named Hatsume Sato, who is considered to be the “Mother Theresa of Japan” because of her dedication to helping people with troubles and founding Mori no Ischia at the foot of Mt Ishikawa.
What to do around Umi no Isukiya Cafe
If you’re going to Nanjo, the obvious attraction is Okinawa World, but since you’ll be so close to Seifa Utaki, this makes the perfect combination with Umi no Isukia (and, like the restaurant, it too is a ‘gift from the gods’). If you’re in the south of Okinawa, you should stop by and visit The Cheese Guy in Okinawa and taste some of the most authentic cheese you’ll find anywhere on the island (and be sure to bring loads of money because you’re going to want to spend it on their mouthwatering selections). Just be sure to call ahead to make sure the shop is open. The Valley of Gangala isn’t far away, and if you’re in the mood for a thrill, you can sit on a swing (not for the faint-hearted) and get pushed out over a steep cliff overlooking Chinen Misaki and the southern coast.
Please note: on the English version of Google Maps, this restaurant will show up as ‘Sea of Isukiya.’
Umi no Isukia Cafe
Kudeken-267 Chinen, Nanjo, Okinawa 901-1511
Google Maps Link
