Did you know there was a tiny island close to Okinawa that was famous for carrots? Tsuken island, only a 30 minute ferry ride from Kin-Nakagusuku Port near the tip of the Katsuren Peninsula, is known for the ultra-sweet carrots grown by the farmers who live there. But there is a lot more to see on the island than just fields and fields of carrots. It’s a perfect place to chill out, enjoy some beautiful scenery and forget about life for a day. Truthfully, you could easily spend a weekend there if you’re looking for a place to gear down and relax.
Okinawa’s Carrot Island
The island became known for growing carrots when the Uruma City government in consultation with the prefectural authorities decided to make carrots the main crop. Lacking access to local manure (since there was very little animal husbandry on the island) the farmers on the island benefited from subsidized transport of manure from the main island. Summer in Okinawa is way too hot to grow carrots, so they’re planted in successive plots starting in November and harvested starting in February. The cultivar grown there is famous not only for its sweetness but also for it’s bright orange color and high nutritional value. Tsuken Island carrots can be purchased at Urumarche (a popular farmers market in Uruma City just across from Gushikawa Aeon Mall).
The seasonality of carrot production works out for some of the islands’ inhabitants. Staff who are engaged in water sports activities during the summer can work the carrot fields in the winter, allowing them to find employment year-round.
Of course, carrots are not the only crops grown on the island. Sweet potatos and beni-imo are popular during the summer. It seems the Uruma City government is quite serious about maintaining and bolstering the agricultural productivity of Tsuken Island. Judging by the fairly new irrigation systems and the relatively large reservoir on the island, it would appear that the authorities have made significant investments.
In addition to agriculture, the island’s economy is sustained by fishing. Walking or riding around the village streets it’s hard not to notice all the fishing nets piled up in various places. It’s not uncommon to pass fishermen (and women) fixing and untangling nets they’ve hung out on the walls around their homes (all traditional Okinawan homes have walls). Happy to see visitors to the island, they’ll smile and wave as you go by.
Tsuken Island’s Growing Tourist Industry
If you’re looking for a commercial hotel experience, you won’t find it on Tsuken Island. What you will find are is a cozy little inn called Kamiyaso that’s really just one step up from a hostel. You can get a private room, but toilet and shower facilities are shared with other guests. Kamiyaso is home to a restaurant that offers a basic menu with a few selections. The food is delicious, but the portions are not huge. I had the donburi, at the lower end of the price range (¥850 when we were there) but I could have ordered the steak. I noticed other customer ordered steak and the portions seemed quite generous. If I go again, that’s what I’ll get.
Live music seems to be the specialty of this particular venue and we were lucky to have been treated to a performance by Maru. Accompanying herself with guitar, she has a wonderful voice and the songs she sang were original modern songs with an Okinawan flavor. We learned that she was live streaming to social media, so we made a point of clapping really loud to convey our appreciation to the audience. We were happy to hear that a number of listeners made generous donations to a fund supporting the island thanks to her music.
Just down the hill (it’s a very steep hill) is a place called Sea Crews where you can swim in the ocean, go snorkeling, or get pulled on an inflatable raft by a jet boat. There is also a very decent restaurant where you can get lunch or enjoy a cool drink. The food is a bit pricey for what you get (I paied ¥300 for a plastic bottle of shikuwasa juice) but it is tasty, it arrives hot in a timely manner and both the interior and exterior are well-appointed. There’s a nice little swing you can take a ride on too.
What’s really good about this place is the package deals they offer. It’s only ¥9,000 for a night’s stay and this includes a barbequed meal prepared by the staff at supper time. We didn’t stay the night, but one day we plan to return.
Getting Around on Tsuken Island
If you’re going to Tsuken Island, you should rent a bike, which you can get at the local “grocery store” (which is more like a rather basic tuck shop) called Azuma Shoten for ¥500 each. The bikes are nothing special, but if all you want to do is putter around the island for a day, what more do you need? The lady even gave us popsicles when we brought them back at the end of the day.
I should note that if you go into the store and no one is there, just wait a few moments. There is an automated chime that rings when you walk through the door and it seems like that chime is connected to some system not too far away. We waited for a few minutes, then an Okinawan lady showed up in a little pickup truck and asked if we wanted bicycles for the day. We said yes, paid, and were on the road in no time at all.
It speaks well of the inhabitants of the island (not to mention the tourists) that a shop can be left completely unattended like that. I’m not sure if anything gets stolen, but I imagine if theft were a serious problem, the owner would lock the door.
What to See on Tsuken Island
Nobody goes to a place like Tsuken Island expecting to be blown away by world heritage sites like Shikinaen Royal Gardens or over-the-top spectacles like Nago Pineapple Park, but there is a surprising amount to see there. Of greatest interest to me was the ruins of old lighthouse. Built in 1896 (around the time people were actually living in Chatan Town Uchinaya), it is thought to be the oldest lighthouse of modern design in Okinawa (older style towers were in place at Cape Hedo much earlier). Unfortunately, the lighthouse was destroyed in a bombing raid during the Battle of Okinawa and was never rebuilt. The foundations, which remain to this day, are considered to be an important architectural artifact. To me, there is something ghostly about the place. We were there in mid-afternoon on a hot summer day, but I wondered what it would it look like at night? Maybe I’ll stay at Kamiyaso one night and find out!
One of the most endearing qualities of traditional communities like this is the widespread adherence to old superstitions. Besides adorning gateways with Shisas and displaying sangwa, many familes place shells on the walls of their homes. Thought to ward away bad spirits, they add a distinctly Okinawan character and old-world charm to the village streets.
If you’re looking for a quiet place to meditate, you can find it in a tiny garden maintained on a volunteer basis by the townspeople. Built on the former grounds of an old school, the garden features a stone table and lots of beautiful greenery. It appears to be the site of a local market which is only open on certain days. We sat at the table, drank cold water and let time slip by peacefully as we rested, happily out of the blazing sun for a while.
Tsuken Island’s Historical Claim to Fame
There is one monument on Tsuken Island which might be of great historical significance. The plaque claims that it marks the birthplace of the inventor of the sanshin, the instrument that is literally synonymous with Okinawan music. For that reason, Tsuken Island is said to be the birthplace of Okinawan music, and who am I to disagree? The story goes that he was born in a little cave right on the beach in 1526. If that’s true, it’s kind of awesome.
At this place can be found one of the main natural attractions of the island, namely a tall, thin rock that is shaped a bit like a carrot. There’s even some greenery at upper end that makes it look like a carrot top. Very fitting for an island famed for its carrots.
What is Near Tsuken Island?
If you’re going to Tsuken Island, you might want to check out Katsuren Castle on the way home, and while you’re there, why not Waitoui Gorge? You can take a right turn onto Kaichu Doro and check out Miyagi Island. Don’t plan on a trip to Nuchimaasu Salt Factory because it will be closed by the time you get back to port from the island, but I highly advise a visit if you haven’t already been.
Of course, you don’t have to combine a trip to Tsuken Island with anything else. It’s a full day worth of adventures in itself.
Tsuken Island
Island off the Katsuren Peninsula of Okinawan Main Island
Google Link to Kin-Nakagusiku Port
