There are so many good reasons to visit Oujima in Nanjo City that I could make a very long list, but the two best reasons are 1) amazing tempura and 2) adorable cats. There is also the rustic peacefulness of the island, the beautiful ocean views, a scenic shrine and whole bunch of fascinating Okinawan history, but I’ll get to all that later.
Tempura on Oujima in Nanjo
When Oujima comes up in conversation, people in the know always speak of the delectable tempura that can be purchased there. The tempura prepared here is of the Okinawan variety, which has a thicker batter than that found on the mainland and it is considered by many to be a lot more flavorful.
There are a handful of tempura restaurants scattered around the island and they’re all very reasonably priced, offering excellent quality and decent portion sizes. There are a couple of tempura places by the port (turn left when you cross the modest bridge to the island), and some on the other side of the island (keep right at the fork), right on the road that runs along the coast. It doesn’t really matter which way you go because they all serve top-notch tempura… or so I’m told. I can’t eat their offerings because I’m gluten intolerant, but I’ve got it on good authority that you can’t go wrong when it comes to tempura on Oujima, so all the tempura restaurants on the island deserve your business.
The area around the harbor offers an assortment of shops and restaurants, and there is a lot more there than just tempura. You can get bentos of all kinds, bowls of squid ink soup, fried fish and various desserts. It’s worth taking a walk around the harbor to see what the fisherman have brought in. When I was there, some rather scary looking squid were hanging on a wire rack, drying in the warm sun and the soft ocean breeze.
The Cats of Oujima
There are a lot of cats on Oujima and many of them are cared for lovingly by the local population. While there are a lot of cats on Oujima, it doesn’t seem like they are overpopulating. This is partially because of the efforts of volunteers doing TNR (trap, neuter, release) on the island, partically because the islanders seem to take cats in (I saw sakura-cats on the inside of house windows), and very likely because people adopt some of the kittens, which are well-socialized and accustomed to humans.
Other Attractions on Oujima
Besides tempura and lots of over-fed cats, Oujima offers a number of other attractions, such as a shrine and an an alter by the sea on the island’s most scenic spot.
The Bridge to Ou Island
The bridge to Ou Island was constructed in 2010 and is, I’m told, the 6th bridge that has been built to cross the 90m span of ocean separating Oujima from the main island of Okinawa. The first was a simple wooden brigde built in 1939. As you drive onto the bridge, note the sculptures of sabani boats on the pillars at each end. These cement boats pay homage to the islands deep roots in Okinawan fishing culture culture.
Oujima Kannon-do Shrine
In the heart of Ou Island stands Oujima Kannon-dō (奥武島観音堂), a modest yet spiritually important shrine that functions as a monument to the island’s history of compassion, resilience and genuine care. The origins of Oujima Kannon-dō trace back to the early 17th century, when, According to local lore, a Chinese sailing boat foundered in a fierce storm on one of the island’s reefs. As the distressed crew attempted to navigate unknown reefs of the island’s shores, a woman dressed head-to-toe in white appeared out of the island’s dense forest, beckoning the sailors to come to safety. Encouraged, the sailors disembarked and were warmly received by the islanders, who provided shelter, nourishment, and aid in repairing their ship.
The sailors were able to set sail again and upon safely returning home, the crew sent a golden statue of Kannon — the bodhisattva of mercy — to be enshrined on Ou Island. Though the original golden statue was “lost” (read looked) during the Battle of Okinawa, the shrine was lovingly rebuilt, and a ceramic statue now resides within, continuing to serve as a focal point for worship and reflection. The shrine’s architecture is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of the shrine at the top of the lengthy stone staircase at Nago Castle Park (where there is no remaining castle). The grey stone torii gate was originally erected in 1615.
Oujima Kannon-dō remains integral to the spiritual life of Ou Island. It is central to annual events such as the Haarii festival on May 4th, where islanders pray for bountiful catches and safe voyages, and the quinquennial Oujima Kannon-dō Festival, a vibrant celebration expressing gratitude to the island’s guardian deity.
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Ryugu Place of Worship
On the eastern side of the island, there is a sacred site known as the Ryūgū God’s Place of Worship (竜宮神の拝所), dedicated to Ryūjin—the Dragon God of the sea in Japanese mythology. This site is a significant spiritual location for the local community.
In the Ryukyuan religion, which is indigenous to the Ryukyu Islands including Okinawa, natural sites like this are often revered as sacred spaces. The Ryūgū God’s Place of Worship exemplifies this tradition, where the natural landscape itself becomes a place of veneration. This is a truly special place where the sacred coastline of Ou Island unfolds in rugged majesty, and sharp-edged rock formations, sculpted by centuries of waves and wind, rise defiantly from the shallow, clear water of the Pacific Ocean.
As the sea pools gently between the stones and ripples lap the weathered limestone formations, one can feel the depth and power of the prayers whispered by generations of worshipers and carried away by the ceaseless ocean wind. Those of my readers who have engaged with my other articles on this website will be familiar with this refrain, but when you visit this place, don’t let yourself be rushed. Stand before the tiny stone alter, inhale the sea breeze, gaze the clouds in the eternal sky, reflect on the endless body of water stretching to infinity from the rocky shore below, and let yourself become one with all of it.
Oujima 'Temple' Bell
Just beyond the stone torii gate of Oujima Kannon-dō, a short flight of stone steps leads to an unexpected but most welcome feature of the island, a large gray bell. While some writers have termed this “a traditional Japanese temple bell,” or bonshō (梵鐘),” it appears to be anything but. In Buddhist tradition, temple bells are rung to purify the mind, ward off evil spirits, and signal the presence of the divine, but I’m honestly not sure that’s what this bell would accomplish. It’s old and rusty and, hanging from a simple metal belfry, appears to have been fashioned from some kind of large gas canister. It’s hard to imagine that this rather ignoble little bell would in any way be associated with the elegant temple below.
Unsurprisingly, the sound of the bell is not what you’d expect from a temple bell, the mellow, lingering tones from which are believed to awaken the soul, inviting reflection and reverence. But don’t let it’s unremarkable appearance convince you it’s not worth seeing (or hearing). It is resonant in it’s own unssuming way, and I’m glad I took the chance to ring it using the handle of my umbrella (next time I’ll bring a rubber mallet just for that purpose).
As for the purpose of the bell, one expert on local Okinawan traditions told me that this bell likely served as way to get the attention of the community during an emergency or, possibly as part of local festivals without deep religious significance.
Things to do Around Ou Island
Nanjo is so full of incredible places it’s hard to know where to begin, but I’ll start with the obvious. If you visit Oujima, you can easily combine it with a trip to Seifa Utaki, one of Okinawa’s most sacred sites. Ancient ruins like those of Tamagusuku Castle make for an excellent second destination. You can visit Nanjo Art Museum (which is very close to Seifa Utaki) too. If you want a place to eat lunch that rivals the serenity of Nanjo’s major historical attractions, go to Umi No Isukia, which is right outside Seifa Utaki’s gate. The food is delicious (but you might only want dessert because you’ll be full of tempura), the view is breathtaking, and the garden is almost a power-spot in itself.
You can also check out Nirai Kanai bridge, which is a noteworthy feat of engineering and quite fun to drive on. What I wouldn’t recommend is combining Oujima with a trip to Kudaka Island, even thought the port where you can catch a ferry is not too far away. Kudaka Island is a whole-day trip on its own.
There is a lot to do in Nanjo, so much that you could spend a week there and feel like you were only scratching the surface. But Oujima is absolutely worth the drive from central Okinawa and you could easily spend a full day there.
Ou Island in Nanjo
Oujima: Tempura and Cats
Google Map Link to Oujima
