What makes the Okukubi River mangrove in Okinawa such a powerful place to visit is its serene tranquility. If you can make the time to walk through the coastal forest just north of Kin, allow yourself the luxury of standing silently on the boardwalk amid the clusters of fluttering mehirugi leaves, and just listen. As you drink in the natural aromas of the forest, absorb the murmur of water lapping the tree roots as the tide rises or recedes, hear the leaves whisper their mischievous secrets as the gentle breeze weaves magically around the weathered trunks, and sense the beating of wings as pigeons frolic in the canopy above.
Located at the outflow of the Okukubi River (the headwaters of which originate in Kisenbaru, Onna-son), the Kin mangrove, like its counterpart at Wansaka Oura Park in Nago, is one of the few remaining mangroves that have survived coastal development in Okinawa and as I stroll under the forest canopy on one of my ongoing visits, I can’t help but feel a twinge of sadness thinking about how extensive mangrove forests once were in Okinawa and how so many of the creatures who depend on mangroves are now seriously threatened. Mangrove fireflies (of the lampyridae genus) and the Ryukyu black-breasted leaf turtle (Geoemyda japonica) are in danger due to pollution and loss of habitat and, most famously, the dugongs which once frolicked in the coastal waters lined by mangroves and beds of seagrass are now extirpated, probably forever.
But I can’t bring the mangroves back. All I can do is let myself enjoy what’s left of them to the fullest of my ability, and I’m thrilled that at least some efforts have been made to protect the remaining forests.
Natural Wonders of the Okukubi Mangrove Forest
The most important species in any mangrove forest are of course the trees. In Kin, these are mostly mehiruhi trees (Kandelia obovata) and ohirugi trees (Bruguiera gymnorhyza), both of which are salt-tolerant species that thrive in brackish coastal waters along the edges of river inlets. These trees provide vital ecological services owing to the way they root strongly in the mud, filtering soil runoff, slowing erosion, and providing a natural barrier against tsunamis and storm surge. They also provide habitat for the juvenile members of various fish species that live in coastal waters.
The trees of mangrove forests reproduce by dropping ‘propagules’ (seed pods) from fertilized flowers into the water, where they float downstream and eventually sink to the bottom, where the seeds take root and grow. I was lucky enough to be able to photograph one such propagule, which had conveniently fallen from a tree and landed on the railing of the boardwalk, right in front of a sign featuring photos of mehirugi leaves, flowers, roots and fruit.
Animal Species in Okukubi River Mangrove
But the trees are only the beginning. The mangrove is also home to countless birds of many species, including the various egrets and spoonbills that can be seen around the Ryukyu islands. A common sandpiper is not an uncommon site. At low tide, it’s possible to see crabs crawling around in the mudflats. These seem to be different than the crabs most easily visible in other mangroves around the island (most notably the fiddler crabs). If you time your visit right and look very carefully, you might see a mudskipper fish resting in shallow water, or even occasionally on land (they are partially amphibious). It’s not uncommon to witness fish jumping in he deeper water closer to the middle of the river.
Walking Kin Mangrove
The mangrove forest would not be easy to walk through were it not for the boardwalk installed by conservation authorities. The wooden pathway leads visitors through a series of meandring paths that always lead back to the road. What’s so great about these paths is that they let you see the mangrove up close without getting your feet muddy and, more importantly, without disturbing delicate littoral habitat.
From the time you park until the time you return to your car, the whole route might take you about an hour or so. If you’re like my wife (type-A personality, always on a schedule with other things on her mind) count on one hour. If you’re like me, the walk could easily eat up two hours. But in my mind, these would be two hours well spent.
There are various routes you can take, but I recommend crossing the river and walking through the complex of built pathways on the far side of the river, then crossing at the first bridge and coming back along the other side. There are currently (Jan 2025) barricades blocking the return route, but these are meant to stop vehicles, not foot traffic, so don’t be afraid to walk around them.
Low tide is the best time to get a good look at the tree roots and the mud around them, but don’t hesitate to visit at high tide when the forest floor is flooded. And as you stroll along the walkway, slow down and take a good, long look at the tree trunks, noting the little oval-shaped scars where branches used to grow. These scars provide a record of the trees branching history and are the subject of a study by OIST (Okinawa Institute of Science and Technology), as evidenced by a bilingual sign asking visitors not to touch the trees.
Local Okinawan Legends in Kin
Speaking of signs, one of the more interesting non-natural attractions of the Kin mangrove is the collection of local stories posted on signs along the road that runs parallel to the river, where all the staircases to the raised boardwalk begin. Written entirely in Japanese, these stories relate to events in Okinawan legends, some of them originating from the area around Kin Town. There are seven in total. One day I might translate these and post the English versions as a stand-alone article on this site, but for the time being, if you want to see all seven legends, you’ll have to visit Kin in person.
Farm Culture of Kin Town
If you have any interest in farming or agriculture, you might want to take a little detour around the streets perpendicular to the main road that runs along the mangrove and have a look at the farms. Depending on when you go, you’ll see crops at different stages of growth. The area around the mangrove seems to be dedicated to a rotation between rice and taro (probably ta imo), both of which are grown in flooded paddies.
Attractions at Okukubi Mangrove
One historical landmark you won’t want to miss is the remnant of an old aqueduct, one of only a handful left in Okinawa. Only a small section currently remains, but it stands as evidence of the lengths to which local farmer communities had to go to bring water to their fields in the days before large-scale public waterworks were widely available. There are a few such aqueducts scattered around the island, some as far north as Hedo. This is one of the most accessible.
If you go on a weekend, you might have the opportunity to go for a ride in a card drawn by water buffalo. The cart won’t take you along with wetland route, but it might be fun to sit back and get pulled around by one of Okinawa’s traditional work animals.
Some people don’t like the idea of keeping animals to do work. I get it. However, my impression was that these water buffalo were very well treated and live rather pampered lives. Some of them are very friendly and curios, and the ride operators seem to have no problem with people touching them, so if you or your kids want to get up-close and personal with a water buffalo, this is a good place to visit.
Visit Kin Dam
Assuming you’re not in a rush and you’ve got a bit of time to burn, it’s worth a taking a short drive to Kin Dam. In the rainy season, the spillway is likely to be open and the overflowing water can be seen cascading down the angular concrete wall designed to direct it down to the ground. At other times of the year when the water level is lower, you might not be able to see the spillway in action, but you can take a short drive up to see the artificial lake. Cross the bridge that runs along the top of the dam wall and park at the far end, then walk back a short distance along the road to see a nice view of the lake and the rather impressive bridge that allows the highway to traverse the water.
If you drive this section of highway on your way to Nago, Motobu, Nakijin or Kunigami (as I do quite often), you’ll pass over this section of highway and see the lake. It’s kind of neat to see it from another perspective.
If you look carefully, you can see egrets hunting along the shoreline many meters below. We saw a duck (probably an Easter Spot-Bill) beating it’s wings along the water’s surface as it took to the sky. Even if the birds don’t put on a show for you, it’s just a relaxing place to take in a pleasant view of the sky, the ocean and the all the little fields surrounding Kin Town.
Nature Mirai Park
If you visit the Okukubi River Mangrove, park your car at Nature Mirai Park. There are usually lots of spaces available, and there are toilets on site. You can rent kayaks if you want to travel along the river, and there’s a even campground with a little tuck shop if you want to stay the night there.
Be sure to check out the areca palms (Areca catechu) along the road leading from the parking lot. These are the trees that produce clusters betel nuts (used extensively in Polynesian traditional medicine), which are plentiful in season, and rather beautiful. You can learn about the uses of Betel nuts as part of the permanent exhibit in the Oceanic Culture Museum at Ocean Expo Park in Motobu (near the aquarium).
Things to do around Kin
Besides Kin Dam, there are a handful other places of interest around Kin Town. If you’ve want to check out another mangrove, Wansaka Oura Park isn’t all that far away. You’re also just a short jaunt on the expressway from Todoroki Falls, which can be accessed right off Route 58 on the south side of Nago City (and technically part of it). You could take in a bullfight in Uruma City, conquer Mt. Ishikawa or head over to the west coast of Okinawa and visit Cape Manzamo for a breathtaking view of one of the island’s most iconic cliffs.
Before you leave Kin, if you’re in the mood for a cultural experience, you could check out Kin-Kannonji Temple and the little cave behind it. It’s no match for Cave Okinawa, but it’s a fun little excursion, and it’s free to visit. Just be advised that it’s not artificially lit and the stairs are quite steep. The temple grounds are not extensive, but they’re peaceful and well kept, and worth a visit if you like spending time in places associated with Japanese religious culture.
While Kin isn’t exactly known for its selection of fine restaurants, you could find worse places to eat than King Tacos. This is the restaurant that brought tacorice to the masses and the first of the chain opened in Kin. If you’re used to taco rice places like Kijimunaa in American Village with its extensive ‘fusion’ menu, King Tacos might not blow you out of the water, but the serving size is decent and I’ve never heard anyone complain about having eaten there. You could also eat at CC’s Chicken and Waffles (which is kind of a legend in itself in Okinawa) for best-in-class fried chicken.
There is lots to do around Kin if you look, but probably the best reason to go is to visit the mangrove. Even if you don’t care about the ecological significance of the wetland, it’s just a wonderful, peaceful walk along a forested riverbank that you can enjoy on your own, or with friends and family.
Okukubi Mangrove
Mangrove Forest in along the Okukubi River near Kin Town, Ominawa.
Google Link to Kin Okukubi Mangrove
