Nekomaruan Kissaten is a small, family-owned cat cafe in Nakagusuku Village, Okinawa, right on Route 329. The name, 猫丸庵 in Japanese characters, means ‘Cat Circle Hermitage,’ which perfectly reflects its humble presentation, its focus on cats, and on its mission to help complete the circle of care and healing in the animal community.
I feel I need to give you fair warning; this place is not for people who are squeamish about cats getting near their food. Some cat cafes are designed to keep the cats away from eating areas, but this one is not. Some of the felines are a bit shy, but others are rather adventurous and these deviish souls might try to make away with a part of your meal if you’re not careful.
One other thing you need to be warned about is the odor upon entering. The cafe smells strongly of cats, and litter aroma is detectible (stronger on some days than others). If you eat here, you will be dining in a place where you can smell cat litter. If that really turns you off, consider eating somewhere else. But if you’re a cat lover like me and a bit of litter-smell is a small price to pay in exchange for a lunchtime filled with feline fun, this place should be on your bucket list.
The Nekomaruan Kissaten Experience
This is not a vegan restaurant, and believe me, they know how to cook meat. The food is simple, but first-rate. I’ve been there a few times and I’ve ordered a number of items on the menu. My favorite is the yakitoridon (grilled chicken over rice), served with gemmai (brown rice). You can choose between white rice and whole-grain rice with every set, and I always take the whole-grain, just because I seldom eat it at home and I want something different when I go out.
Every set comes with a mushroom salad and miso soup, served covered to keep the heat in. They serve water too, which they protect with special plastic covers so the cats don’t sneak up and drink from the glasses (note: don’t forget to replace the cover between sips or you might end up sharing with a thirsty feline).
Atmosphere in Nekomaruan
Nekomaruan Kissaten is the kind of place where you can go and just feel totally relaxed and at home. The traditional Okinawan music playing softly in the background lends the cafe a sense of place and belonging on the island, and creates a bit more of a rustic atmosphere than the space would enjoy on its own.
There is something very soft about the interior. I often go there after a work day that starts quite early and find myself so drained that after I finish my meal, all I want to do is lay down and take a nap. I’ve done this more than once, and it has never been a problem. It might be a bit rude at peak times when the place is bustling with hungry patrons, but if you arrive around 2 PM or later, particularly on weekdays, you’ll have lots of space to stretch out. Just don’t be surprised if you attract a little furry companion.
Cats at Nekomaruan Cafe
The owners of Nekomaruan Cafe are deeply involved in animal rescue and fostering. They also cat sit for people who are away from Okinawa. This means that in addition to the resident cats, there might be a few visitors from time to time, some of them kittens.
The felines in the cafe range from terminally shy to absolutely extroverted. That means you might not be able to pet all of them. It also means that you might end up petting some of them whether you like it or not. This latter category is my favorite. The owners are fans of cosplay, so don’t be surprised if some of the little fur babies show up in some rather adorable outfits. Last time I was there, one showed up in a bandana and tiny cowboy hat.
For a small fee, you can feed the cats. There are various offerings you can choose from, but the most popular with the cats are little popsicles made of churu (a liquid cat treat), which the cats will come and lick. When we were there the first time, a little Japanese girl was feeding two very appreciative cats at once.
Other Animals at Nekomaruan
The owners of this cafe are not only cat enthusiasts. Outdoors, but adjacent to part of the seating area, is a cage that contains two ducks, one of them so adorable it rivals the cats. These two ducks are curious creatures, to say the least, and often stand gazing into the seating area at patrons.
These birds, like their feline counterparts, are rescues taken from frightening conditions by decent and caring humans who opened their homes, showed them love and found them a forever home where they could be cherished and valued.
The owners seem to have a soft spot for birds. While not present at the cafe, there is literature available (in Japanese) about fighting chickens, and the deplorable treatment these animals receive at the hands of humans who profit from their suffering. Since this is a restaurant review and not a screed on animal welfare, I’ll end this discussion with a reminder that even though this cafe is not vegan, the energy of the place is very loving and hospitable to animals of all kinds.
What is around Nekomaruan Kissaten?
The closest main attraction is Nakagusuku Castle, one of the most impressive historical sites in Okinawa. Like most other castles in Okinawa, it offers a commanding view of the island’s coast while whispering softly of the proud and ancient culture of which it stands as a valued and prominent relic. Not far from the castle stands Nakamura Residence, an old house built bu a wealthy family with deep and ancient roots in Okinawan history and culture.
If you’re willing to venture a bit farther, you can visit the grave of an ancient queen, located in a quiet little forest behind the EM Wellness Resort Kurashi no Hakko. If you go, be sure to take a little walking tour of the surrounding area, particularly Kishaba Park, and pay respects at the very peaceful and well-maintained grave of Kou Kishaba, the founder of that little hamlet. People say that a wondrous and uplifting energy can be felt in that area, and I personally sense it. Honestly, though humble compared to Nakagusuku Castle, this little grave is one of the ‘most Okinawan’ places you can hope to visit.
If you’re in Nakagusuku, or just passing through it, consider supporting a very worthy local business by enjoying a tasty, healthy, hearty meal and the healing company of gentle felines at Nekomaruan Kissaten.
Editor’s Note: This article was unsolicited and completely uncompensated.
Nekomaruan Kissaten Cafe
Cat Cafe in Nakagusuku
Google Map Link to Nekomaruan
