Founded in the 16th century during the Ryukyu Kingdom era, Kin Kannon-ji is one of Okinawa’s oldest Buddhist temples. Its name honors Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion, and the statue of this deity enshrined here, is said to possess unique healing powers, especially for ailments of the eyes.
The statue is carved from Chinese camphor wood and has been revered for centuries by pilgrims who once traversed difficult terrain to bow before it and offer heartfelt prayers. Notably, in modern times, pilgrims still come – but now they usually take the toll highway that runs right by Kin town.
Kin Kannon-Ji Temple and Grounds
Upon entering the grounds of Kin Kannon-Ji, the first thing a visitor will notice is the canopy of mature fukigi trees (like the trees that line the streets of Bise in Motobu). The crowns of these majestic trees obscure the temple from the main road and provide pleasant shade to visitors descending the hill to the temple grounds. One of the trees is designated as a national treasure and is believed to the more than 350 years old. This tree was not present when the original temple was built, but it may be the building’s oldest companion.
Amida Buddha Statues
The temple grounds are studded with various statues of Amida Buddha, who is strongly associated with the western pure land that Nisshu was searching for.
In Okinawa, Amida worship was historically blended with ancestor veneration and local animist traditions. Many temples dedicated to Kannon (like Kin Kannon-ji) also include images of Amida, affirming a layered, compassionate vision of the afterlife that echoes Okinawan beliefs about ancestral spirits and the journey beyond death.
Unlike the Zen path, which emphasizes personal awakening through practice, Amida Buddhism is “centered on the grace of a cosmic Buddha who embraces human weakness and vows never to abandon anyone who calls upon him,” (at least, so says ChatGPT). If that’s true, I totally get why the locals like him.
Nokotsudo (Ossuary Hall)
Behind the temple is a separate building labeled with the characters 納骨堂 (no kotsu do). Separately, these characters mean ‘storage, bone, public hall’ and together they refer to an Ossuary hall where the cremated remains of deceased people are stored.
Don’t go in there as a tourist (this should be onvious but I thought I’d mention it). There was a family paying their respects when I walked past. When they closed the door and only their unidentifiable shoes were visible, I decided to take a shot and present it here as a reminder that this temple is not merely a tourist attraction. It serves an important spiritual purpose in the lives of the people of Kin Town and Okinawa in general.
History of Kin Kannon-Ji Temple
The temple was founded by Nisshu Shonin, a monk from the mainland (you’ll read about him later in the part about Nisshudo Cave) back in th 1500s, though little is known about the original construction. The temple was extensively rebuilt in 1942, before World War II came to Okinawa (talk about bad timing). Fortunately, unlike the 95% or so Okinawa structures that were damaged or destroyed, this temple seems to have survived more or less intact.
What to do at Kin Kannon-Ji Temple
When at Kin Kannon-Ji I recommend you do what the locals do. That is, stand at the entrance to the temple, then hold your hands together and bow. If you feel like praying, you can speak directly to Kannon, or, if you’d rather, to your own preferred deity. You can buy an incense stick (the signs in Japanese ask you not bring your own) and light it to commemorate your prayer, or you can buy an omikuji (fortune written on paper), which you can tie on a string on the temple grounds not far away, or keep as a little memento.
You can also walk the grounds looking for cats. There are a few cats around. Some have the cut ears of sakura-neko, while others don’t. If you go looking for cats to pet and photograph, be mindful that the temple grounds are a sacred place and demand respect. Also, remember that the properties surrounding the grounds are private.
Nisshudo Cave
Adjacent to the temple lies Nisshudo Cave, a limestone cavern extending approximately 270 meters in length and reaching a depth of around 30 meters. This cave has an interesting history. In 1552, the Buddhist monk Nisshu Shonin set out from Wakayama Prefecture in search of Sukhavati (I think I spelled that right), which is the mythical western paradise in certain Buddhist traditions. Sadly, he never found it. Instead, he ended up getting shipwrecked not far from Kin in what was then the Ryukyu Kingdom and was helped by locals. In order to express gratitude to the villagers who aided him. He carved and placed three statues—of Buddha, Yakushi (the Medicine Buddha), and Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Compassion) at the cave’s entrance.
Some versions claim Nisshu Shonin placed the statues after ridding the area of venomous snakes, while others say the statues he placed were intended to seal snakes inside the cave, which was thought to be infested. All the legends seem to agree that he did, in fact, carve statues and that the community was happy with his efforts.
Unfortunately, the statues he carved no longer remain. The Kannon statue in the temple is much more recent, and the origins of the golden Buddha in the cave are unknown.
The Golden Buddha
Inside, visitors can find a golden statue of a laughing Buddha, often referred to as the “Happy Buddha.” This statue, with its joyful expression, embodies happiness, contentment and prosperity, and rests in quiet contrast to the solemnity of the temple above.
The golden Buddha statue currently inside the cave, often referred to as the “Happy Buddha,” is a relatively recent addition (Nisshu Shonin didn’t carve it). While the exact date of its creation and the identity of its sculptor remain unclear, it serves as a symbol of joy and contentment, complementing the cave’s serene atmosphere.
Shrine to the Three Kumano Deities (Kumano Sansho Gongen)
Directly across from the Golden Buddha stands a little shrine which is locked, only to be opened on ceremonial occasions. The sign beside it translates as below (credit to DeepL and Chat GPT).
A monk named Nichijō, who trained on Mount Kōya, came to this area and built the Horaku-in Temple (now part of Kimpusan Kannon-ji Temple). He believed that Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Compassion) had come from Kumano to reside here.
Nichijō carved an image of Amida Nyorai (Amitābha Buddha) and enshrined it in a cave, establishing the worship of Kumano Sansho Gongen, a syncretic form of three deities worshipped in the Kumano tradition.
These three manifestations are:
- Nachi (Senju Kannon / Thousand-Armed Kannon) — representing the present
- Shingū (Yakushi Nyorai / Medicine Buddha) — representing the past
- Hongū (Amida Nyorai) — representing the future
They are collectively known as the Three Kumano Gongen, each with associated manifestations:
- Izanami-no-Mikoto
- Hayatama-no-Ōkami
- Kotoshironushi-no-Kami
Shrine to the Water God
Deeper in the cave is a shrine to the water God. This may or not be the same sea-dragon god revered at shrines like Oujima Kannon Temple in Nanjo. Either way, the sign by the shrine speaks of the god’s association with compassion, similar to the Kannon statue inthe temple above. The sign translates into English as follows:
Suijin (水天 – Water Deity)
Protector of the Buddhist Law and ruler of the water realm, this dragon deity is enshrined here. He washes away human suffering and purifies the spirit, awakening compassion in the hearts of people.
Buddha's Parasol
In addition to man-made shrines, the cave also features natural formations like “Buddha’s Big Parasol,” a stalactite resembling a large umbrella, adding to the site’s mystical ambiance. This stalactite formation that is growing more quickly than would be expected in other Okinawan caves thanks to the cave’s greater than usual airfow (I know this because a sign nearby said so).
End of the Cave
Nisshudo Cave, or at least the part that tourists are allowed to visit, terminates with a locked grate. This grate is to protect the awamori (Okinawan liquor) being aged there. The temperature and other conditions of the cave are ideal for aging awamori, and the historical and spiritual significance of the cave confer a certain mystique.
What's near Kin Kannon-ji and Nisshudo Cave?
If you’re going to Kin, you absolutely must visit the Okukubi River mangrove forest. This is a well-preserved section of the kind of mangrove that once lined the entire river mouth and it is teeming with nature if you know what to look for and go when the tide is low. Incidentally, the road that runs along the river features seven signboards that tell the mythical story of Nisshu Shonin, the founder of Kin Kannon-Ji. The walk around the mangrove will take between an hour and two hours, depending on your walking pace (and how long you stop to read the legend). If you’re in a big mangrove mood, you could also check out Wansaka Oura Park in Nago, but that’s best left for another day.
Kin Dam is also quite a site to behold if you’re interested in artificial lakes. You’ll see various birds there, including ducks and egrets, and the view of the highway bridge over the water is worth the short drive from the mangrove.
The temple isn’t all that far from Ishikawa where Okinawan bullfights are held on Sundays (be sure to check the schedule) and you could definitely see the temple, the mangrove and a bullfight in one day. You could also easily drive to the other side of the island and look at Cape Manzamo on the west coast.
When you make your travel plans, be sure to allow yourself lots of time at Kin Kannon-Ji. There is so much to appreciate there that you owe it to yourself and your travel companions to slow down and take it all in. Kin Kannon-ji and Nisshudo Cave together offer a unique glimpse into Okinawa’s spiritual heritage, blending Buddhist iconography, local folklore, and natural wonders into a cohesive and enriching experience.
Kin Kannon-Ji Temple
Buddhist Temple in Kin
Google Map Link to Kin Kannon-Ji
